“How does it make you feel?” Don Draper asks an auditioning model, clad in her $15,000 Blackglama chinchilla coat. And with that scene, which opens Mad Men‘s mid-season premiere, the show announces its transition into the luxury-driven ‘70s. The company is rolling in money from the McCann Erickson deal, and all of a sudden everyone’s a big spender. Look at Don’s and Roger’s dates, with their low-cut Marilyn dresses, piled-high hairdos and oversize jewels — the proto–American Hustle look. But even in this shiny new present, relics of the past are still hanging around — namely, Megan’s earring, still embedded in Don’s carpet. When Trish, his stewardess conquest, finds it and asks if he’s sleeping with another woman, Don says it belongs to “the woman I’m not sleeping with — my ex wife.” It’s the first allusion to Don’s divorce, though we might have already guessed that: The episode thus far has unfolded like a melancholy hangover. It’s telling that the woman Don is drawn to by the end of the episode is a plainly dressed diner waitress in a blue shift — her old-fashioned uniform and nurse’s-style hat a relic of the past.