EYE ON THE EAST
Second edition of the scouting project
focusing on experimental brands from Eastern Europe.
SUPER will present a focus on the collections of a series of Eastern European brands that have made a name for themselves on the international scene for their research and creativity. More Dash: Eye on the East is a Pitti Immagine project in collaboration with More Dash, the showroom & PR agency launched by Daria Shapovalova, founder and creative director of the Mercedes-Benz Kiev Fashion Days. The brands are: Agne Kuzmickaite (Lituania), Anouki (Georgia), Elena Burba (Ukraine), Flow The Label (Ukraine), GIBSH (Ukraine), Jiri Kalfar (Czech Rep.), Naya Rea (Russia), Scenarium (Russia), Tamar (Georgia),Tatman (Ukraine).
AGNE KUZMICKAITE (Lithuania)_ considered Lithuania’s best-known designer, Agne Kuzmickaite is known for the conceptualism and functionality of her designs. Her creative talent has also found success in the world of theatre, where she has worked as costume designer on more than 15 productions. Her clothes blend everyday life with traditional elements. Objects and details artistically harmonize in garments with a contemporary feel. The designer is inspired by a “daily life princess” for her work: a young woman with a multi-faceted busy everyday life, in which different roles intersect globalized inspirations and human relationships.
ANOUKI (Georgia)_ based in Tbilisi in Georgia, Anouki Areshidze set up her clothing and accessories brand in 2013. This designer’s work is based upon understanding what today’s women require from style and fashion, going beyond the concept of ephemeral, seasonal trends. In 2014, the designer launched MISS ANOUKI, a collection with a young approach, focusing on millennials. Anouki is currently sold in more than 30 countries including the US, UK, Dubai, Saudi Arabia and Hong Kong. www.anouki.com
ELENA BURBA (Ukraine)_ the simplicity of everyday things. That is what has always inspired Elena Burba. Things like a flower, an orchid, which is the symbol of her FW 2017 collection. An iconic message of delicacy and harmony. Femininity and grace are always central to her designs. An almost childlike beauty at times, which gels perfectly with a feisty inner force. This dual nature comes through in her clothes, thanks to her expert use of textiles, colours and cuts. Pastel hues give delicacy to romantic silks and tulle, but the collection also features minimalist coats paired with suede and eco-leather boots. www.elenaburba.com
FLOW the Label (Ukraine)_ A Belgian-Ukrainian brand, FLOW The Label interprets a femininity with minimalist accents, laced with a dash of experimentalism. Its key features are the symbiosis of a male/female style, an attention to detail, and ethical values. The brand’s mood draws upon the serenity of the mountains, combined with the beauty of the storm. www.flowthelabel.com
GIBSH (Ukraine) _ the designer Dmitry Gibshman launched his brand in 2017. A metropolitan and club mood pulsates throughout his first collection. The feminine ideal is that of a young woman who expresses youthful irony and desire for fun between underground clubs and the street. Sweatshirts inspired by the acetate of the ’70s and t-shirts are coupled with more sophisticated garments, where cut and fabric coordination reign supreme. Uncovered shoulders, waists and legs add a fresh, youthful and sensual mood.
JIRI KALFAR (Czech Republic)_ Czech designer Jiri Kalfar possesses an innate sense of style, and he has a background as a ballet dancer. His creations intertwine folk-art inspirations with innovative cuts and fluid forms. In his menswear, a strong “no-gender” identity shines through, with the concept of gender being cast aside by the innovative transversal nature of his designs. Meanwhile, in his womenswear, an overtly feminine power is played up thanks to vibrant colour palettes and extremely refined silhouettes. www.jirikalfar.com
Naya Rea (Russia)_ The new collection from designer Naya Rea attempts to offer a window into her native Siberia, through the clothes themselves. This harsh, unfamiliar land which is also fascinating and mysterious, has clearly had a great influence on the designer’s colours and textures. A modern, decadent mythology, reflected in every last detail, from the prints designed by Rea herself, to the fabrics – such as embroidered velvet and wool crepe combined with sheer textiles and delicate motifs – and the colours, in hues ranging from deep blue and dusky pink, to fiery orange and black.
Scenarium (Russia)_ Russian label Scenarium presents an elegant, avant-garde aesthetic. The focus is on fabrics, all of which are sourced strictly from Italy, France and Japan, and on details: oversize coats in wool and mohair, bouclé parkas, double-breasted cardigans and jackets with contrasting embroidery. The cuts and silhouettes of the pieces bring to mind the great Russian artistic tradition of sculpting works of art, where the fabric becomes the medium to mould around the female figure and silhouette. www.scenarium.com.ru
Tamar (Georgia)_ Founded in 2015 by Tamriko Kebuba, a Georgian designer based in Ukraine, the Tamar label is named after the Queen of Georgia who heralded the Golden Age of the nation, from 1184 to 1213, and was famed for her utter allure and modesty. The designer’s creations include references ranging from the natural world to architecture; her clothes are designed for contemporary women, urban queens. The female silhouette is flattered by layering and different textures laid over each other, and every piece in the collection is cut with sophisticated fluidity and linearity. www.tamarfashion.com
Tatman (Ukraine) – Launched in 2014 from the combined creative talents of two sisters, Tatman brings to light a collection designed for an independent, sophisticated woman, confident in her tastes and sure of her own style. Irony and class are central themes in these creations. The details are all strictly handmade and there is judicious use of embroideries and prints they put on t-shirts and sweatshirts. The FW17 collection consists of loose fitting jumpsuits, outfits in velvet matelasse, oversize cashmere coats and multicoloured shoes, completing a romantic wardrobe with a contemporary twist. www.instagram.com/_tatman_handmade